Sunday, January 17, 2010

A Sample of Restaurant Week

Twice a year here in DC, we're treated to an event known as Restaurant Week. Assorted restaurants all over the region open their dining rooms to guests to enjoy a three-course prix-fixe menu at a set price. The obvious advantage is it gives folks a chance to enjoy some pricey restaurants at a fraction of what it might cost. Plus you get a pretty good sample of each menu and what should be the chef's signature dishes.

But there are also a lot of complaints to go along with restaurant week. I've heard restaurants limit what they place on their prix-fixe menu and leave off some of their best dishes. I've heard the staff at many of these restaurants slack-off because they feel the clientele isn't their normal customer base and probably won't return for the full-price menu. I've also heard some of the chef's use this particular week for when they take vacations...leaving their menu in the hands of sous chefs and kitchen apprentices. I've also noticed more and more of the big-name restaurants staying off this list all-together, making bargain dining hard to find.

For the first 3 years of living in DC, I embraced this concept. The moment restaurant week is announced, diners jump on Open Table and grab up reservations. I always look at the price listing and try to grab one or two reservations from the most expensive on the list. This year I snatched up a spot at Vidalia. After another sub-par experiences, it's probably one of the last Restaurant Week's I'll take part in.

Let me make something real clear. It is possible to have a great dining experience during this week. Last winter I had a great dinner at Art and Soul and Cafe Atlantico. During the summertime restaurant week, I enjoyed one of the best meals at Oval Room. Many restaurants get behind the concept and see it as a chance to show off and capture the attention of potential customers. I just seem to have lost interest in the idea.

So this time we hit up the subterranean power spot of Vidalia. Chef Jeffrey Buben describes Vidalia's cuisine as original American with a subtle Southern influence. The dining room is convivial yet elegant and exudes sophistication and confidence. We were greeted at the door where the hostess took our coats and quickly whisked us off to our table in a small room off the bar. I liked the intimacy of the small dining room until our neighbors decided to belt out laughter that could probably be heard on the other side of DC. We're talking serious decibel levels here. We thought we were safe when they left, only to hear the table next to theirs pick up where they left off. I mean seriously? Was it improv night at Vidalia.

Back to business. Our server was nice but a little aloof. He took a bit of time to make his way to our table but quickly retrieved our wine selection. He then proceeded to spill drips of the wine all over our table and our glasses. Not a big deal, but not what you'd expect in this fine dining establishment. But with wine in hand, we proceeded to eat.

I enjoyed a mushroom risotto with smoked gouda fondue, elf mushrooms and a broccoli rabe. The dish was smooth, well cooked and hearty for a cold night, but lacked the punch you might expect from a James Beard winning chef. My second course was a maple leaf farm duck breast with emmer wheat, dry cranberries, pecans, leg confit, duck egg and a bourbon barbecue. The duck was perfectly cooked and presented atop the cranberry confection. Mixing the sweet flavors of the bourbon bbq with the cranberry was a total delight. And the duck literally melted in my mouth. This was my favorite course of the night. We also added Vidalia’s baked macaroni with Amish cheddar, goat cheese and smoked ham for an additional cost, which was well worth it. Not only was it a creamy/cheesy plate of goodness, it helped us make up for a rather small second course which was nothing more than our proteins and some garnish. They were all good, but not quite a hearty amount of food.

I wrapped up my meal with a whoppers dessert, which was malted meringues, malted-milk chocolate mousse and chocolate sauce. This little creation was light, airy and a perfect sweet ending to the meal. The flavors together really did match what you'd taste when enjoying a box of malted milk balls at the movies. As my dad would say... how'd they do that?

Overall the food at Vidalia was great. The service was spotty but it was a busy Friday night and our waiter was very nice. The overall mood of the restaurant was simple, elegant and well done and the entire staff made us feel accommodated. In most cities on any given night, this restaurant would easily be one of the best. But this is DC. And on this night, Vidalia was just...eh. We're not New York or SF, but we're getting there. And we have access to some of the best chefs in the world now. If a restaurant doesn't put their best effort forward, you can definitely tell. I'd be very curious to see if Vidalia was any different when it's not restaurant week. Because to be perfectly honest, I got the impression we didn't get the best of this supposedly great DC restaurant. If I go back, I'll be sure to update you with what we find.

Photo courtesy of Vidaliadc.com

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1 Comments:

At 9:59 PM, January 23, 2010, Blogger Mommers said...

We had that in Columbus this week. The restaurants were offering three course meals at a reduced price and in addition donating to the relief effort in Haiti.

 

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